One of my favorite things about sitting with my father and his contemporaries is the exchange of folk songs and old stories. There’s a story about my Ammo Manawail and Ammo Fouad as boys, fighting over the dried watermelon seeds. When Fouad let go, Manawail fell backward into the tray where Taita Hilwa, my grandmother kept her baby chicks. Ammo squashed the chicks, and the seeds went flying. He immediately went into hiding, and Hilwa (which means pretty) gave chase, tying a bandanna around her head before tracking him down. When Ammo tells the story, he mimes her tying the bandanna, and we all laugh. There’s the folk song my Great Grandfather Ibrahim wrote about a cat knocking Elias Kassis’ aoud onto the wheat grinder, and his wife, Katrina breaking him the news. There’s my all time favorite old Arabic song, Al Rosana, that my Aunt Anise knows, and I forget the verses to. I sing what I remember anyway, often when I’m lonely, or putting babies to sleep.
I don’t know if the story about Hanna Awwad is true, or just a word play with rhyme. I only really remember line of the song, “titthakaree Hanna Awwad” (do you remember Hanna Awwad)? And it’s response “kharaga wa lem ya’oud” (He left and did not return). Tony and another cousin of ours, Fadi, used to tell it all the time. In the recesses of my brain, I think he went to the store for something silly, and was never heard from again. I think it’s real, because Tony always got in trouble when he told it. The story reminds me of Tony, who I loved like my brother. Who I miss, now that everything is different, and now that I am leaving. I’ve been in Palestine for 19 days, and I have only seen Tony once. I saw a couple of school friends to whom I’m related, and I didn’t see my best friend from my years in residence at all. She was supposed to visit, but never did. I’m not surprised by her absence, or by the sadness I feel about it. Short of seeing Lubnah and the kids, everything here hurts. And though the joy I get from spending time with my sister, and the ease with which we are ourselves, exactly as we’ve always been, is huge, the reverse, the pain of our parting is huge, too.
We leave Sunday afternoon, at around 4:00. The driver to the Jisr is early, and my parents are frazzled. They are running around the house, trying to tie up loosed ends while we meander in the drive-way, waiting. The waiting makes it worse because I have time to get (more) emotional. By the time they come down the stairs, I’ve already begun weeping. I hug Lubnah fiercely one more time, and get into the van with Rachel and my parents, and two strangers. The fam is coming to Amman with me for a week before I fly off, and Lubnah is working until Tuesday, when she will fly to France for the city. We take Wad il Naar to the Jisr, as we came, and by now I’m familiar with its dips and curves. I can’t say I’m sad to part with the terrain like I once was, or perhaps I’ve used up all the sad in the reservoir on this trip already. By the time we are in Jericho, I have moved to cracking jokes and gearing up for the maze of red tape ahead.
Before arriving at the Jisr, we stop at a maktaba in Jericho to get tasareeh (permissions) for me to exit with my howiyyah. Of course, I have my passport, so the tasareeh shouldn’t be necessary, but apparently the jawaz (passport) needs a month before it’s accessible on the computer system. I marvel at this techno fail–that you could receive your passport but not use it for travel–the entire time we are applying for the tasareeh, which cost another 55 shekels. The van takes us to the Palestinian side/building/agency and chaos ensues. My father wants to make sure Rachel can travel with us because she’s a minor, we need to buy bus tickets and cargo tickets, we need to make sure the suitcases get on the bus, we need to pay Palestine 134 shekels a pop to leave, we need to show our passports and howiyyahs and tasareeh to some dude at a desk to be arrogant and troubled by. I have forgotten something crucial, something I should have considered before agreeing to all this: traveling with my parents makes all things 100 times more difficult. We leave the Palestinian border with 4 bus tickets, 5 suitcase vouchers, 4 “exit tax” receipts.
A bus takes us to the Israeli side. Well, first it takes us to a gate, where we disembark, walk through metal detectors, and load onto a another bus. This second bus takes us to the Israeli border, where another metal detector awaits. We are let off the bus in small groups, and the Israeli guards divert me, Rachel, and Mom directly to the building without passing through security. Men and women wearing hijab are directed through this first metal detector. Inside the building, another metal detector and a baggage scanner await. All travelers go through this, and my father goes through three times: the first time he has forgotten his belt. The second time he has found a key in his pocket. The third time is beep-free. We stand in line to have our papers stamped and stapled and shuffled but the line is taking eons. There are approximately 100 travelers and three people working the booths. Like Meijer, we pick the slowest cashier. From here, we go to another station, where the woman demands proof of exit tax payment, and yet another, where a man checks our passports and howiyyahs a final time.
We get our bags, and load them onto a third bus (which also requires a ticket and luggage vouchers) that will deposit us at the Jordanian border. On the bus, we fill out a white card with some banal information which is then checked when we disembark. The suitcases are taken from us to be checked, again, and deposited on the other side of the border, to be retrieved when we complete our Jordanian stamping and shuffling. When we enter this building, we’re given a number, and for a moment I am ecstatic: no elbowing old ladies in line, no other travelers attempting sneaky “cutsies.” My enthusiasm is misplaced. Even given numbers, people swarm the windows like vacationers at the cruise ship buffet. When you do manage to hand your paperwork over, they ask you to have a seat on the chairs and wait for your name to be called. No one does this. They stand at the window staring down the workers, waiting for a moment’s weakness to ask for favors. My name is finally called, and I am cleared to go through. I pay 10 dinars for my visa to enter into Jordan. Meanwhile, Rachel is being held back while she secures a green card. I myself have one of these, bu I don’t know what they mean, or what they are for. Merely that they are part of what Jordan wants to see.
After we all make it through, we buy various treats from the duty free, and go outside to find a taxi. My father negotiates a price to Amman, and we bundle into the four door, for an hour ride to Ammo Manawail’s. On the whole, our trip lasts 5 hours. As we’re driving, I notice things I didn’t notice 19 days ago like the spread of American fast food joints and designer labels. You can get everything in Amman, for a price, per global capitalism’s intention. Still, I feel lighter here, my heart ready to shake off some of the heaviness; I didn’t realize it was so heavy until it lifted. I am excited for the next week, because I will be taking in Amman as I never have before: the Petra, the Dead Sea, Hammamat Ma’in (Turkish Baths). We visited Amman often, but always spent the time with family. The whirlwind schedule suits–I don’t want time to think about what I left. What if Hanna had come back, after 11 years? Would he still be lost? Wasn’t I?
Ammo’s house is mostly as I remember it with a few key changes. They have removed the small fountain from the right side of the main entrance to make a car park, and they have hired a new live-in house servant. His name is, Mina, from Masr, and he is only 22. Manawail has always stood out to me as the richest person in our family, and his house belies it. It’s enormous, well kept, not visibly rich, but deeply, like old money. I love it, but it makes me feel dirty. I hate hearing Ammo yell at Mina (he yells as a way of communication), but Mina is new, and doesn’t know that Ammo barks at everyone. Still, I feel strange when my bags are wordlessly, and invisibly taken to my room. I inquire later about Mina’s pay, and become disgusted with myself even further, but everyone seems convinced they are doing him a favor. I try to engage him, but he averts his eyes from me, from everyone but children as far as I can tell, with whom he plays, easily, often.
That night, Ammo Manawail hears about my fig-lust, and sneaks me three straight off the tree in his garden. He tells me to eat them downstairs, so I don’t have to share, and I selfishly do. Upstairs, I hear the women talking about weight loss, how fat they are, nose size, depilatory choices. Next to them, the men play cards for dinars, smoke cigarettes and argiylah. I excuse myself from both spaces, feigning exhaustion, and walk down into the basement, into my room. The finished basement is 10 degrees cooler then the house above, and it’s a house unto itself, fully furnished, a spacious kitchen, 1.5 baths. A picture of Seedo Farid hangs in the living room, and one of Ammo Fouad sits in my bedroom. The last time I saw him was in a dream, shortly after his death. I resolve things that way, in my sleep. In my sleep, Rami forgave me for leaving him and not loving him back enough. In my sleep, Dalia and I have a Lifetime reunion, holding each other as the years recede meaninglessly.
In Amman, I can’t sleep at all so I unpack as Fouad looks on. I sing Al Rosana, my favorite verse: kolhum habibhom ma’hom wa anna habibi raah. Ya rabi nasmit hawa t’rod il habib liyah: everyone has their love with them, but my love has gone. Dear God, send a gentle breeze to bring back my love. It sounds cheeky, but it’s not. The rhythm is so simple, the register so earnest. I sing what I know to Fouad as I prepare for the next week, prepare to go back to another kind of home. Meanwhile, there are Taita’s chicks, Ibrahim’s cat, Hanna.
The answer is yes.
Yes, yes. I remember.